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> What rod characteristics for float fishing in lakes?
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Topic: What rod characteristics for float fishing in lakes? |
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euroangler
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I enjoy fishing with bobber and worm. (A style very popular in Europe, where I'm from.)
I plan to use both fixed and slip bobbers. I might occasionally use it in rivers, but for the most part it will be from shore or from my small aluminum boat in lakes.
I'll fishing predominantly in the Okanagan area, so trout, bass, small salmon, and panfish would be the most common target.
What kind of rod do you recommend I buy? I'm familiar with spinning gear more than center pin, fly, or baitcasting reels.
Thank you for your advice.
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mzmann
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for bobber fishing in lakes I myself usually don't worry so much about the rod im using and worry more on the reel being smooth and paired well enough with the rod so that one can get decent casts and smooth reeling.....also one would want a bit stiffer of a rod to set the hook quickly as the bobber will be detecting your bites and not the rod tip really.....if your are not familiar with baitcasters then I would definitely say to stick with the spinning reels....bit stiffer of a tip/rod....say anywhere from 4 to 12lbs rating and 6'6 to 8'6 in length....also keep in mind that longer rod is going to limit casts when fishing from shore......just my thoughts
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bently
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I'd buy a 7'7" spinning rod with a sensitive tip section if it was me.
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cagey
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why the sensitive tip bently?
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ChakaRaka
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I agree with the sensitive tip part, but you lost me at 7'7"...sounds custom. I use a 7' that I bought for Walleye fishing. You want a sensitive tip with shy tasters, trout and salmon slam the offering where as Walleye sip at it shyly. Good advice here though, and I agree to stay with spinning for that application.
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euroangler
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Thank you for the advice so far. If I understand this correctly, I don't necessarily need a long rod (e.g., 10+ ft) like they use for salmon and steelhead float fishing. That's more of a river thing?
Regarding the action, it has been suggested that I use a fast action rod (sensitive tip). However I noticed that "float rods" by brands like gloomis have all moderate actions. Why is that?
Thank you in advance.
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mzmann
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its because as mentioned above its used for float fishing and the float detects your bites and the extra stiffness helps in the setting of the hook.
If mostly bobber fishing in the lake then a sensitive tip is pretty much useless and is only going to up the chances of losing a fish due to a late/poor hookset.
Put it this way....if you have a sensitive tip...watch your float do the dip n dance..go to set the hook...but the sometimes precious extra milliseconds it takes from watching the bobber dip, get any slack in the line taken care of between float and rod, pull back to set the hook only to have nothing there because the tip was to soft and you were not able to load up enough to make the set in time....bottom fishing you dont have the bobber to worry about or any slack in the line so a sensitive tip is more applicable....with a less sensitive rod you will get a faster and stronger hook set then you might with a sensitive tip.
Yes the longer drift rods are more for river application as with the extra length you are able to keep your line off the water so that you present a more natural drift when floating through current.
Personally I would stay away from something 8+ ft (unless float fishing a river or have a need for it otherwise) if you do alot of shore fishing where there is not always alot of casting room as it really sucks getting your rig hung up in the trees or bushes behind you, lol!
I agree 100% in the sensitive tip if you are fishing from bottom and need to watch your rod tip for the nibbles but as your question was "What rod characteristics for float fishing in lakes" the simple answer would be medium/moderate action/stiffness with a length of 6'6 to 8'6 would be best for float fishing in lakes.....if its mainly float fishing in lakes you are doing then this would be best...if its mainly bottom fishing then something a bit more sensitive would suit better.
Hope this helps
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cagey
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i agree with mzmann, thus my question about the sensitive tip. the question was about float fishing where i always thought you wanted a bit of muscle for reasons explained above. for bottom fishing etc by all means a sensitive tip. also as mr grey1 says a light setup is more fun. that is why i fly fish for trout. i was wondering if bently had just misread the question or had a special reason (as he always does for things he does "outside the box".if you happen to look back on this thread bently plse fill me in!
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ChakaRaka
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I see where you guys are going with this, but then wouldn't slip weights and flimsy little fly rods also be an impediment? Just something I wondered, I'm cheap (more so broke) so only have one all-round spinning rod...
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mzmann
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not so must as an impediment so to speak rather than whats ideal for certain situations and locations...slip weights/egg sinkers are ideal in many situations because they are the best weight to use to detect light strikes as the fish does not have to pick up the weight of the weight before showing a noticeable strike.
Up until a couple years ago I was pretty much the same....1 multi-purpose spinning rod was all I needed...it wasn't until I started doing other different types of fishing and seeing that others with more appropriate gear were having more success in landing fish and keeping/putting gear where they want it on the river and out of the bush.
I mean I used nothing but $30-$50 walmart/canadian tire rods for EVERYTHING but salmon and the only reason I probably didn't try em out for salmon was because I had not really fished for em other than trolling in the ocean. Used the same types of rods (went through many because of my refusal to pay more than $50 at the time, lol) to spin and float fish lakes/stream/rivers for Bows/Browns/Bulls/Walleye/Pike/whitefish/lakers in both AB and BC.
I still use the same type for spinning in rivers/lakes and bobber or bottom fishing in lakes (depending of course alot on the size/species being sought after)....ie...would not use such light gear to jig/buzzbomb for lakers....lost too much gear and exploded a couple rods being stubborn/stupid like that, lmfao...yet I still buy the $50 combo rods from time to time but its usually for loaners or because of a snapped rod or broken reel on the old $50 one....funnily enough the couple rods/reels that I "splurged" a bit more on have never been snapped/broken and they definitely get more use/abuse!
If fishing quite frequently it definitely pays in the long run to spend a little bit more on better quality gear but say for a once a month or less fisherman then one may not care so much.....until something catastrophic happens when he has the fish of a lifetime on only to lose it due to insufficient gear, lol!
Just my thoughts
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bently
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I said sensitive tip because I'm a firm believer in that "the tug is the drug" doesn't only relate to spey fishing.
I don't think the fella is going to be using his spinning rod to float fish a river, therefor I think that a more sensitive tip rod will suit him best for overall performance and fun.
Bobber fishing with a worm doesn't necessarily mean you have to set the hook like your a BASS MASTER, you can let the fish take the bobber down and lift the rod tip with ease, a little more flex in the tip won't hamper your catch rate all that much IMHO, the fish for the most part will still hook themselves.
I don't want a rod with a moderate to stiff tip on it , especially if it's going to be under 8' in length, not much fun there in my books anyway.
Peoples choices will vary with this though so whatever.
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cagey
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thanks bentley. i have not float fished for trout for many years and was wondering why you thought that.
even with salmon i sometimes wonder about the importance of setting the hook vs the fish hooking itself IF you can feel the fish right away. often the fish has the hook in its mouth long before the float goes under. when i feel something strange i just take in a couple of turns and everything explodes. often you miss bites if you wait for the float to go down.....another benefit of a light rod.
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Fish'n BC
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Aside from hook setting considerations; I find the lighter rods benificial for active fish with soft mouths like kokanee and jack coho that go balistic when hooked.
The sensitive tips help prevent them from tairing the hook out of their mouths and I find it way more fun to use.
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